TANZANIA'S NATIONAL PARKS

1 Serengeti

2 Lake Manyara

3 Tarangire

4 Arusha

5 Kilimanjaro 6 Mikumi

7 Ruaha

8 Kitavi

9 Mahale Mountains 10 Gombe

11 Rubondo Island

PARK REGULATIONS

. Visitors are reminded by the Park authorities thatit is an offence to:

Approach too close and disturb any birds or animals

\ . Cause any noise or create a disturbance likely to offend or annoy other visitors

Discard-any litter, burning cigare~e endsor matches . IIxceed the speed limit of 50 kph

. Bring a pet into the Park

Bring a firearm into the Park

2

Tl7e name Serengeti conjures up images of one of the last remaining wildlife spectacles on earth Those lucky enough to visit this wilderness area come away with memories of vast herds of antelope feeding on the plains. Columns of wildebeest, head to tail, trudging along their traditional migration routes, and prides of lions, sometimes sltJeping, sometimes alert and carefully stalking their prey. The extensive grasslands are interspersed with 'kopjes' - rocky outcrops like islands in the flat plain, each with their own wildlife communities. Rivers flow through the Park, providing 'habitats' for a variety of birds, mammals and reptiles.

The Serengeti is one of the largest wildlife sanctuaries in the world, and the commitment to its preservation shown by the govermnent of Tanzania is important in a country faced by land shortage and a rising population.

Your purchase of this guide book and visit to the Serengeti National Park will also help preserve this unique place, as all proceeds go directly towards the conservation of the Park. I hope that your time here Is enjoyable and rewarding,

LOT A MELAMARI Director Genera! Tanzania Natiooat Parks

3

T~Jil!;m,nlf'!" i~ ~Ol.lt 14,163 sq kms in area.

b~~¥'fh~n thl:ii Ngon;:lI1goro highlands and the

~imo8t t~~ La~€l Victoria The Park

ECOSYSTEM

~-t"{<

"

4

A'tln rn.my n~11ionai rrH.Jcn ofth~HfJHdl;f6 which inhai}its the area moves ·IU"~;·. p.\rh b'Jundark')~1 al certain ~oosons of the yoor, along traditional nllqt:lllol\ InUIl'::,. in ~,emd\ 0'1 foo.j and water.

I!,

\;~

As in al! ecosystems the vegetation and types of animals you find are closely correlat€'i't The principal features of the Park are the short and long graSi open plains in the southeast, the acacia savannah in the camel area, the hilly, more densely wooded northern section, and the ext.ensive woodland and black clay plains. dominated by the central ranges of mountains in the western corridor,

Associated with these different vegetation lones and places are dmerent types of animals. Giraffes need trees to browse and so will not be found in open

Uons will usually foilow the migrating wlkiabeest and flamingos will befolJnd on the lakes. it is obviously impossible to say exactly where different sp!~i~~s wiW occur but it is possible to build up a picture of the most ~ ~.$ 'iD b.e found in any 81'00.

N~ 500 species of birds have been recorded in the Park, some of them Eurasian migrants which are present from ~roApril

5

NOTES FOR VISITORS

This guide book is divided into the main vegetationaroos of the Park and

when and where to look for the likely species. There are summary pages for each of the main an:~:i> and al~o more detaik'ld descriptions of the species.

The Park hdS 5everal guides who can accompany yeY 011 your game dfives. The gui<~~~ know trle Park well, know where animals. \-(jn be fownd and can plan ro~· which will suit your interests. If your trip to the Serengeti is Cl short one, a tour of Saronera valley witil opportunities to see lion and leopard is probably most rewarding, as the Park <,.rea is very large.

Please remember that you must stay on the road within a 16km radius of Seronera This regulation is necessary because it prevents the harassment of animals and stops the vegetation cover from being destroYe9 in this popuiar part of the Park. If you are in a tour vehicle please do not permit your driver to ignore PCirkregulations. if you are planning a longer trip please rememoerthat"you'may only travel in the Park between 6 am and 7 pm, so aliow plenty of time to fieachyour destination in dayll$]ht Always check that you have enough p.etrol before smrting mlt

You are welcome to get out of your car in open areas Be particularly careful nf'..ar thick bush as animals are often well hidden. Always remain dose to your car and keep a careful lookout

Little information is avaiiab!e on the Serengeti from German coioniai times and it was, not until the early 19208 that the first professionai t1lmters started to open up the area with s<~faris. In 1929, El section of what is now the central Serengetl, including SelOnera, was made a full game reserve a.nd it was at about this time that the Sf:lengeti became world famous for its lions.

Inl'i.l50 the Serengeti was made a 'closed game re5erve' in which certain specie!l w.'!e l()t~lliy protected. It remained thus unti!1951 .. when the Serengeti was firtt mltablished as, a national park. The Park included the Ngorongoro Crater highlands. hullrt19~9 tile (jostem Seren$;1eti, including NQoron~lOro Crarer W~$ excised trom 1.110 I1ntionnl pnrh Md mode a conservation area. The few M<i.8.li'ei remaining in the Park wt'm I n!I"Ulnd in the conserli'ation area and extem~km$ were added to the Serengetl 111 tlH. IImtll ;111(1 sOl,tt1 it was mainly as a result of the work of Pro~$t'.Of SElrM8ld ( 1I11l1li.1t dlld hiS :.;n! i Mich8.13!, thatthe importance ofthe r;ortl1em section of the PM!( 10 Itw wlldul'f'm'll wa~ appn~ciated and hence this ar€1B" wa$ added.

The early mornings and late evenings are the best times to observe birds apd animals. During the heat of the day much of the wildlife rests under cover. L~ camp or the lodge early and remember to drive slowly. look under trees and bushes for the pricked ears of some animal raising its head, and also keep a watch out in tiees for the dangling tail 01 a leopard as it lies on a branch. Obser'fe movements et !!"le plains animals which may appear distufbed for no apparent reason - they may have seen, or be suspicious of, nearby lions. Tick birds may indicate the preQence 03 rhinos or buffalos in bush country, and vultures circling can mean a kill and ~b'e their presence is worth investigating.

The paftem of sblipes

cm ev<!!fy zebra is dH6erenl

When you first see members of a pride of lions or a group of zebras they all iock much the same! If you spend a few moments watching you wil! begin to see individual differences" No two zebras have the same stripe pattern, indiVIdual cheetahs can be recOQII"lised by the different patterns of rings on their tails and lions can be told apart by scars Ol'l their faces and the pattern of their whISkey spots. Baboons have tails of varioU1J shapes and lengths and antelopes may have unusually shaped horns. Look to see the composition of the group: is there one male witli several females, or ail males or ail females or a mixture? As you watch carefully you may begin to notice the ~ the animals interact with eactl other, how the young play together, how closely they feed together, whether some animals seef1'l 'aommant' to others, what a courtship display looks like, If you watch for long enough you can be rewarded bv leat'ning a lot about the '~I Ofganisaticm' 01 a group of ar}j!'Mts and get as much ~letlt out of watching ~ Iilefbivores as ~ carnivores.

p15

Features Treeless plain

No permanent water

Q~ withers in dry season

1 I

9. From December to May 1.3 million I

wildebeest gather on the short grass

I plains. It is here that the calves are born

j and the rut takes place. p16 ...

1

p25

F6stuI'8B Treeless plain

Facilities

Campsite at Naabi HiM

large grass fires sometimes sweep through this area. These often bum trees and, to prevent seYere damage, Park aufborities carry out controlled

MAMMALS Bat-eared fox Elephant Gazelles Kongoni

T~i

WaI1hcg

BIRDS

A very beautiful purple and turquoise bird is the ULAC BREASTED ROLLER. It is common here and throughout the Park.

Ostrich P 28 Secretary bm:j P 27

p24 p52 p25 p!3 p23 p27

9

p29

Views of the plains and Seronera vaTmy

Tourist facilities and in.formation p 63

REPTILES

Agama ftzard

p29

MANY OF THe ANIMALS AROUND THE LODGE ARE VERY TAME.

PLEASE DO NOT FEED THE MONKEYS

- they can bite.

AMMALS

Baboon

Hare

Hyraxes Mongooses Porcupine Spring hll~ Vorvet monkey

p34 P 31 p43 p45 P 31 p3i p34

BIRDS

Serooera Lodge is an ~celtent place

The MARABOU STQRI'( is a scavenger and is often frn:lJnd near human habitation. It also tw.es near open water where it feeds 01'1 frogs.

1

Map p33

FealrJres

The roads and tracks provtdEl" excellent wildlife viewing, especiaUy as they foltow the watercourses where many aniMals take shelter during the heat of tbeday.

TREES

WlIddate Candelabra Commiphora sp. Umbrella acacia Yellow barked acacia

BiRDS

Bateleur eagle Egyptian goose Guinea fowl Heron SpuFfowl Vultures

pi3 p35

p;35 p40

BalbOOI1 Buf!'mo GazelliS$

llm~!@ Jackals

. LeQp;md Urn R66d~G:?\:

Watertv'a.!-ck Ver'0'Gt

p34 p48 p25 p51 p49 p41 p32 pSI pm! 1'35 ;pa

PLEASE REMEMBER NOT DRIVE OFf THE ROADS WITHIN 18KMS OFSERONERA

KOPJES - 'Islands in a sea of

mcilities

Campsite at the Moru Kopjes

MMSAI PAINTINGS at the

MORU KOPJES

u

FLORA

Aloes P 43

BIRDS

Verreaux's eagte p 43

MAMMALS Dikdlk

Hyraxes Klipspringer Mongooses RhinooeJos

p44 p43 p44 p45 p46

p48

Map p55

Featums Woodland Lobo Hill River courses Gallery forest

Facilities

Lodge and campsite at lobo

MAMMALS

BIRDS

The BATELEUR EAGLE is found i" this area and else. where in the Park. Wilt I its short tail it is easy to recognise in f1i.ght, and when perched. b¥ its chesInut red ~

Another bird of prey found fs the filth eagle P 54.

This 8mB IS part of the wildebeest migmtton routI9 from Auguatto NowImta 1)16

11

WESTERN CORRIDOR!

p 57

Features

Neloha Plain Grumeti River Black clay plains

'Central range of mountains

Facilities

Campsite at Kirawira

POACHING Meat poaching, by local people living near the boundaries of the Park, is a problem in the Western Corridor. Park autholitie$ COl'lduct anti-poaching patrols. p 60

REPTilES Crocodile

p59

14

SHORT GRASS PLAINS

MAMMALS

, Colobus

Roan

antelope p 58

vervet

monkey p 34 Wildebeest p 16 Zebra p 18

"you approach the Serengeti from the sooth-east your first view of the pta/ns wJU1,)e from the slopes of the Olbalbal escarpment In front of you, northwestward, as far as the eye can see, stretch the open grasslands:to your right the ridges of the Gol mountains, behInd you the Ngorongoro Crater higBJands, and all around the wJde skies of Africa.

As you drop down the escarpment you will see that the plains are covered with short grass, even at the height of the rainy season. These short-grMl plains extend beyond Olduvai G<:>rge, famous for the skulls of early man which have been found there, and across the boundary separating the Serengeti National Park from the NgoroJ!tQoro Conservation Authority Area.

During the rainy season months, from

November through May, these plains are the feeding ground of a staggering number of animals: 1.3 million wildebeest or white-bearded gnus, nearly 200.000 Burchell's zebras, over a quarter of a miUion Thomson's and Grant's gazelles as well as ostriches, eland, topi, hartebeest and the predators, both great and small, who follow the herds.

The plains are remarkably productive during the rainy season, however, because there is no permanent water in these short-grass plains and because the grass withers at the onset of the dry season, much of the wildlife can only live here when there is a supply of surface water lying in hollows and natural depressions. This is particularly true of the wildebeest and zebra, both of which need to drink regularly.

This area is part of the wildebeest migration route during the dry seascm months p,~6

15

The WILDEBEEST is the domin8J'lt herbivore in the Serengetiecosystem. Tile main migratory population ra~Qes a region of 25,000 sq km, of whicffabout two thirds is protected in the Park, the Ngorongoro Conservation Authority Area, and the Kenya Maasai Mara Reserve, the / rest lying in the adjacept regions of Arusha and Shinyanga.'c, ..

Why is the wildebeest the dominant herbivore? This animaL has evolved a number of adaptations that enable it to exploit these environmentalconditions. .. more effciently than competing herbivores.'. With itswi~ row of incisor teeth the wildebeest can harvest moreigrass per mouthful than practically any associated

grazer.

,;.~, f

However, large cqncentrations quickly exhaust a pasture and so wildebeest aggregations have< to keep mov.n~, Thus It\e migration is a continuous quest for greener pastures and water which takes the wildebeest over an annual circuit of approximately 800 kms and covers a much greater distance whf!ln,.daily local

DRY S'TASON

WET SEASON

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There Is a general movement off the plains as soon as the grasses lose their green flush. As the dry season intensifies. the population moves further north and west toward lake Victoria into areas where there is permanent water and·thunder storms are most likely to occur out of season. Toward the end of t~ dry season in July most of the population have ended up in the Kenya Mara

~~mos~npresSive and probably the most relia~le mi~ratOry -even~~~~e mass movement off the Serengeti plains that occurs at the beginning of the long dry season, typically Mayor June. Lines and columns of wildebeest up to 40 km long have been observed (from tile air) heading southwest, north Ci west as the wildebeest trek to the woodland zone.

The annual wildebeest breeding season or 'rlJi' often coincides with the migration off the plains. In a period of only three weeks around 90% of the cows, some 400.000 wildebeest, are bred. It is fascinating to see and hear thousands of territorial buns, with as many as 280 per sq km, rounding up cows, cutting out bachelor males and bashing heads with territorial neighbours in an all-out effort to breed with as many females as possible.

Eight and a half months later the cows drop their calves, preferably on the short­ grass plains. The wildebeest calving season is another outstanding spectacle. Unlike most antelopes who seek cover when giving birth, pregnant wildebeest gather on the most open terrain available and dozens of calves may be born every morning 0Jt these calving grounds. Calves can stand within 7 minutes on average, and remain with and dependent on their mothers for at least six months, and often up to a year. Cheetahs and wild dogs can easily run down older calves, but hyenas and lions look for new ones. After about two days the calves are so hard to catch that the spotted hyenas the main wildebeest predator, seldom bother with them. The wildebeesfs short calving season, something unusual in the tropics, seems designed to surfeit predators at one time and not give them a steady supply of calves throughout the year.

17

;.. , .. 'Il.\~

~ \ ~ .,1

·.\/l. \ i\\~\ , 't\~:C: ; 1 .\ ''';. i t il

HiVJjJ~.

BURCHELL'S ZEBRA, although outnumbered six to one by wildebeest in the Serengeti, are still obvious participants in the . migration. They move in large aggregations, which consist of family units containing up to a dozen females and young. and bachelor herds of mainly immature males. Each family is controlled by a stallion, who defends it both against potential rivals and against predato."'S such as hyenas ahd hunting dogs. Foals are lx)Ff~ in all momhs except the d.y season. but there is an annual peak in December I January. Mares also cooperate in defending the family and especially protect foals against predators.. This group defence is so effective that hyenas prefer to hunt In packs for l.eb!'a5, whereas they usually hunt singly for antelopes.

The stripe pattern of every zebra is differei1~ making individual recognition romparatively easy. Zebras are very CQnspicuol.ls in brood daylight, but at night, dawn and dusk - the hours when most predation occum - the stripes seem to blend and zebras become as hard to 500 as grey or tar; animals.

While the great herds are in the

grass plains they are especially hunted lions, cheetahs, hyenas and packs of African hunting dOQs.

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AFRICAN HUNTING DOGS are mud and mustard coloured with black and white patches and lalge, round '331 '). Ti,ey live in packs of 6 - 20 animals and :1ave ranges up to 800 sq kms. They are efficient hunters and kills may be grue~(;.ne to watch. Their hunting success rate falls art dramatically when the migratory prey disappears from their range.

Each pack has a dominant breeding pair and up to 16 pups may be born in one litter. The pups are kept in dens for about 12 weeks until they are old enough to follow the adults, meanwhile members of the pack supply pups with food. The pur s beg for the food which is then regurgitated by the adults. Pup mortality is about 80010 as dens are often flooded during the rainy season.

In many parts of East Africa, the HYENA is rarely seen during the daytime, but in the Serengeti they may frequently be observed lying at the mouth of their dens in bright sunlight. At night their whooping cry can often be heard because they are most active after dark. Hyenas have the reputation of being scavengers but they frequently hunt and kill their own food, and it is not uncommon for lions to steal their kills. When a pack of hyenas has pulled down a zebra or wildebeest it is only a matter of minutes before all evidence of their meal has disappeared.

Hyenas live in clans which vary in size from 10 to 100 animals, and occupy a recognised territory. However, a sizeable number of hyenas move with the great herds of wildebeest and zebras as they search for grazing and water around the Park.

19

CHEETAHS can be found throughout the Park, but more easily observed animals are likely to be found on the plains and in the Seronera area. The cheetah, which is sometimes mistaken for a leopard, is a more lightly built animal and has dark 'tear marks' which almost join the corners of the eyes to the mouth. Female cheetahs are always solitary but males sometimes form groups of two or three. There is no marked birth season and up to six are born in a secluded nest site. At six weeks old they start to accompany their mother and remain with her until 15 months old. During this time young cheetahs rely on their mother for food while they develop hunting skills.

Each cheetah has its own individual pattern of spots on its face and chest, and banding on its tail. You should be able to tell whether your second cheetah sighting is the same animal as your first. If the cheetah is lying down, make a quick sketch of the prominent spots of the cheek. If the animal is walking, a record of the width of the black and white bands on the tail will do just as well. Compare these records next time you see a cheetah.

20

Cheetahs are specialised predators relying o~ a concealed approach to prey, followed by a swift chase. Their hunting consists of getting as near the prey as poSSible before the final rush. Although chases can reach 100 kph they cannot be sustainea beyond 300 metres because cheetahs over-heat quickly. Cheetahs rely primarily on eyesight and do not hunt at night Unlike lions, they do not hunt cooperatively, and they lose many kills to these larger predators as well as to spotted hyenas.

In the Serengeti cheetahs prey primarily on Thomson's gazelles. During the wet season they follow the gazelles onto the short-grass plains, but in the' dry season they move to the Seronera and Wandamu Rivers where cheetah density is the highest in Africa. The cheetah's diet is also supplemented by hares, antelopes, such as impata and Grant's gazelles, as weil as the young of wildebeest and topt

During the dry season vast numbers of YEllOW~ THROATEO SANDGROUSE congregate on the short-grass plains. They are very noticeable as you are driving along the road. because they frequently wait until the last moment before springing into the air and flying away. They usually sit in pairs, the male being distinguished by the black-brown band, on the foreneck. Sandgrouse feed on seeds and shoots, and are often seen congregating in huge numbers at available watering places.

~

21

RATEL'

ZORtlLA

-, The RATEL or honey badger will sometimes be seen on the short-grass plains, ~'Jusually in the morning or eVening. It has coarse grey fur on the backsep#trated from the black underparts by a white lateral stripe. Ratels feed on wild bee grubs,eggs and young of birds, small mammals and reptiles. They, are extremefy, oourageous . creatures, attacking fearlessly any thing, however large, that spears to threaten them and have been known to bite the wheel of a car when approached too closely.

In the,Serengeti there is an interesting partnership between the rate! and the black­ thro~ted honey-guide. As its name suggests the bird leads the rate! to a bee hive, and perches nearby while the hive is brokenopsn, hopping down to feed on 1M wax of the comb as soon as demolition is co.ott~. ~ stein of the NltIiIlIlIll A..1D be imperviOus to bee stings.

An animal closely related to the rate! is the ZOFUlLA or striped polecat. Although '. these animals are usually nocturnal, the black ano white stripes and bushy tail, make them easy to identify if seen in the daytight They are very skunk -like in appearance 'and habits, feeding mainly on smat4 mammals. reptiles and ground nesting birds.

The large bird with gr.eyish-'brown plumag~, is the KORI BUSTARO. The male bird, which at 12 kgs weighs considerably more than the female. is the heaviest bird in Africa which can

fly. However it is mainly seen on the . If'.

ground. The male has a 'spectacular display during the breeding season when white plumage around the neck and tail are raised as the male calls.

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KONGONI

Going north from the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area, the short grassland of the eastern, Serengetil plains gradually gives way to medium grassland, then !o longer gra6Sla~ up to 30 cm tall at Seronera. The transition zone is at N~bi Hill, where 'I)Iisitors sign into and out of the Park.

Thwyghout this part of the-- Part< you will see large sculptured earth mounds which are built by termites. Termites are sometimes called white ants, but in fact are related to cockroaches.

Beyond Naabi you should see topi and kongoni or Coke's hartebeest, both typical residents of longer grassland and, like wildebeest, almost pure grazers. Topl and kongoni are very alike, differing, however, in colour, head and horn shape. The KONGONI, taller and heavier, and fawn coloured with a pale rump, prefers the transition zone between the medium­ grass plains and the woodland zone. Aggregations of up to 100 may be seen out on the plains on a post-bum flush and groups of 20 or more are often seen around Seronera.

The TOP! whose colour is a rich bay with blue-black markings on the rump and hind quarters, is most abundant on the floodpiains where it does not have to compete with wildebeest. Topi and termite mounds seem to 9;0 together: both males and females like to stand on the mounds to see and be seen. Kongoni also stand on mounds but less nabitually. Other antelopes and zebras rarely do so.

23

, J

" ,

The two species have qtllite different reproductive and ,social systems. Neither tapt ,flor kongoni are truly migratory, OOt on the floodplains they may move up to 50 km between wet and dry season ranges. Males of both species defend permanent territories containing enough forage for a herd offemales throughout the year, Territories of these two species overlap and,bults, When alone, often remain nea£<, each other. On the ra.re Occasions that they interact aggressively;the topi dominates. its larger relative. The kOngoni is altogether a shyer, less·assertive animal.

There are just under a quarter of a million THOMSON'S and perhaps 30,000 GRANrS gazelles in the Serengeti, and they are often seen together. The Tommy, as the Thomson's is affectionately known, is considerably smaller and redder than the Grant's. An easy way to distinguish these species is to look at the white marking at the rear of the animals. In Tommies the white comes up to the tail whereas in Grant's it comes over the tail and onto the rump. Tommies of both sexes have strongly marked lateral stripes whereas in the Grant's it is only the female which is marked in this way. Grant's are larger and are pale fawn with white underparts. Horns are present in both male and female of the two species but are much larger in the male.

Kongoni breed throughout the year, though with clear peaks in the dry and wet seasons. Newborn calves spend most of their first month hiding in the grass, like nearly all antelopes. Topi have a well--defined calving season at the end of-the dt'y season and catves may Or may not lie out by day. Topi calves grow very fast Yearfing females can hardly be distinguished from adults' by 16 months. IV. this age mosI females mate, and then calve at age two. Many males appear futs grown by two but few are mature enough to gain territories and breed before three Ye.Bf'S of age.

Some people ~ink grazing animals are in a constant state of fear of pmdatofS.. Although they always remain very wary, they seem to know when a predator is not actually hunting, and at such times show remarkably little nervousness provided the carnivore does not get clqser to them than the limit known as the 'flight dista.nce" .•

Tommies are the main prey of the plains­ dwelling wild dogs and cheetahs and the staple diet of resident lions during the dry season when their preferred prey, zebras and wildebeest, have migrated out of reach. Hyenas and leopards also take their toll, while jackals are the main predator on young fawns of both gazelles. Unlike nearly all other antelopes, female gazelles will team up to defend their young against jackals, which often hunt in pairs. Newborn gazelle fawns are even taken by some of the larger birds of prey including the martial eagle.

BAT -EARED FOXES IiYe in burrows in the open plains and although mainly crepuscular, may often be seen and recogrnsed by their generally foxy appearance and very large ears. They feed almost exclusively on insects, but apparently eat roots, fruit and eggs from time to time. Bat-eared. foxes give birth once a year:. at the end of the dl'y season. Four cubs to a litter is typical but up to ten are OC'~ty ~

GRANrs

THOMSON'S

Both species spend a good deal of their time on the long·grass plains after a fire but will be seen in otbnr. areas of the Park. As they are capable of going for long periods without water they often remain in the short-grass plains after the wildebeest and 7ebras have left.

24

26

, I

.'-_.

"

THE GRAilNG SdCCESSION

ORe striking feature a~ut the short and long grass plains is the extrBordlnary mass and variety of grazing animals which can exist hi one. area simultaneously. This' can be explained by a process known as the 'graZing succession', which is illustrated above. The he8vy grazers ego elephants. buffalos and hippos, eat and trample the large coarse causing changes that make the vegetation palatable to lighter grazers ego ·zebras. topl and wildebeest, who in turn prepare the vegetation for the lightest herbivores ego gazelles and warthogs.

28

Despite, or perhaps because of, theIr grotesquely ugly appearance, everyone has a soft spot for the WARTHOG, which is often seen in grasslands grazing on its knees. The warthog is strictly diurnal, spending the night in burrows which tnei take over from other animals, often backing into the 110le so as to be ready for any attacl( made on them by predators.

Warthog are fond of wallowing in mud, and have the amusing habit of running with their tails held erect when disturbed. They are usually seen in farnily groups with 2-4 young, but sometimes the previous year's young stay in the fan'liiy. The enormous 'warts' growing on the faces of males give warthogs their name and like the enlarged upper tusks probably serve to keep opponents aligned head to head during combat between males.

,r'" '-H-,0J~;~,J~-e~,

The tall SECRETARY BIRD is often to be seen pacing through the grassland in search of snakes and other reptiles, which it kills with a powerful stamp of its foot it 13100 eats large insects such as locusts and the eggs and young of ground nesting birds. The crest of feathers behind this bird's head is said to resemble the quill pens which used to be carried behind a clerk's aaI'.

Secretary birdS lay two large whitish eggs in a massive nest built of sticks and tun high in a fiat-topped tree, often a considerable distance from the ground. These nests are used year after year, merely being renovated as the egg-laying season approaches.

21

1

The OSTRICH is the world's largest bird and the only flightless bird native to Africa. Males are conspicuously black and white with naked necks and thighs which turn bright pink during courtship. The breeding season extends from around August to December. Single males defend large territories, court females who enter, singly or in small groups, and guide them to a nesting hollow, where several different hens may lay up to 30 eggs, at the rate of one every other day. This is too many eggs for one ostrich to cover and the extras are left around the nest and fail to develop.

Incubation is divided into day and night shifts, the blacl\: male by night, the female by day when her neutral colour makes her harder to see. The female who incubates the nest is known as the 'major' hen and i~ the first to lay an egg in the nest scrape. The young that hatch in December or January tend to band together and adult pairs may creche their young togeth,er making flocks of up to 60 chicks.

Ostriches are very fast runners and'are able to maintain their pace for a considerable time. This, together with the fact that they have~he ability to swerve sharpty, sometimes enables them to outwit predators such as lions, which are very fond of

28

AROUND SERONERA LODGE

Top:. kongoni, gazelles, and at night, hyenas and jackals are nearly always to be seen close to the lodge. A pride of lions may occasionally walk right through the compound. Hyraxes have become very .me and can easily be watched as they Sunbathe on the rocks. Also easy to watch is the male AGAMA UZARO, with his coral pink head, shoulders and throat, and blue body, legs and tail .. Female agama lizards are a drab brownish-grey and less conspicuous. Baboon troops regularly come to the lodge to visit the rubbish pit These animals can be dangerous and should never be fed.

Among the smaller birds the starlings are, perhaps, the most obvious, with their glossy plumage and irridescent colours. Commonly seen at the lodge is the SUPERB STARUNG. which can be recognised by the narrow white band which separates the deep blue of th.e chest from the chestnut of the thighs. Also seen is RUppell's long-tailed glossy starling, which can be distinguished by its tong tatl, and Hildebrandt's starling is superfh;ially rather like the superb starling but without the white ba'hd on the chest and with red, not yellowish-white eyes. The starlings are very busy birds, al~ys chattering and whistling.

Also found here are vultures, MARABOU STORKS and white-necked ravens, whose cawing call is typical of settled areas in Africa.

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It

At night several animals may be seen by the light of a torch. SPRING HARES. named after their kangaroo-like method of getting about, are large rodents with long powerful hind legs. Often the first thing noticed is their great luminous eyes bobbing in the dark. Spring hares feed on vegetation and live in underground warrens.

fhe BARE-FACED GO-AWAY BIRD, a species of turaco, is commonly seen in the acacia trees near the lodge and can be recognised by its paie grey and greenish-white plumage, crested

head, and habit of running and hGpping up the length of a branch rather like a squirrel. The name is derived from the bird's can which is said to sound like 'go away', but is perhaps more like a shrieking laugh.

AFRICAN HARES and PORCUPIr\lES can also be seen. African hares are usually solitary, although in the breeding season several males may be seen with one female. They are mainly vegetarian, feeding at night on bark, roots and berries. During the day hares lie in well-hidden depressions in the groclIild, Qften under a bush. Their sandy colour amd ability to lie

otionless makes them difficult to be seen by day.

Other common birdS around the lodge include speckle-frontad, grey-headed social and masked weavers, Swahili sparrows, cordon-bleus, petronias and ashy flycatchers.

Porcupines weigh about 20 kgs and are hunted by leopards and lions. Porcupine quills are very sharp and when an animal is attacked it erects the quills and jumps backwards to drive the points into the attacker. If it is pursued it may suddenly stop, allowing the attacker to run into its quills! The quills easily detach and embed themselves, soon festering.

ane of the most enterfafnlng and inieresfing birds of the Serengeti is a regular resident of the lodge area This is t1ARNAUO'S BARBET, which is easily recognised by its speckled brown, white and yeilow plumage. The male bird is extremely aggressive and will not tolerate another male in his tenitof)', it can sometimes be seen attacking Its own reflection in the hubcaps of cars! The mechanical sounding song, constantly heard around the lodge is, in fact, Cl duet. The male bird bobs and bows to the female while repealing his part. the female meanwhile bobs and twitches her tail as she sings the monotonous chorus.

Common trees bere are the umbrella or flat-topped acacia, the'stinkbark' acacia, also found in the west of the park and species of Albizzia which look like thorn trees but, in fact, have no thorns. In October, when these trees are in blossom, the scent is delightful and the wild bees are kept fully occupied.

DtIlfng daytime grass-mice are to be seen everyWhere feeding on grass and seeds. TheY live in burrows under-ground and are very gregarious. They are quite habtess. At night you may hear the African dormouse chattering in the roofs of ~e buftdings.

l1\ree species of mongooses may be seen and heard around the lodge kepje: dwarf, slender and banded. These creatures are described in greater detail on page 45 iD the kopje section of this booklet

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33

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The Seronem valley is justly famous for leopards and lions, both of which can usually be seen and photographed here without difficulty. leopards should be looked for in the branches of the yellow­ barked acacia and 'sausage' trees along the water courses. They often carry their prey up into the branches of tall trees to get it out of reach of lions, hyenas and, to a lesser extent, vultures.

I l

I

SERONERA VALLEY

LEOPAROS' are solitary creatures, the male only associating wi1h the female when she is in season. Their markings are roseate clusters of spots and differ from the cheetah's which are single dots. Leopards are traditionaliy OOf:: of the most dangerous of the wild cats, but in the Seronera valley they sometimes are remarkabiy placid. However, if a leopard has cubs with her you should approach with care.

'Whereas the cheetah hunts by speed, the leopard catches its prey by careful, stealthy stalking. Leopards have a wide range of prey, and are particularly fond of Bohor reedbuck, impala and gazelles, but will also eat dik-diks, hares, game birds and very rarely monkeys and baboons. When baboons spot a leopard from the safety of trees they will often bark loudiy at the intruder. leopards, although expert climbers, can only hunt on the ground. Vervet monkeys make El particular vocalisation when they see a leopard and !he whole group responds by rushing up the nearest tree. Leopards do not roar like lions, but 'grunt cough or make a noise lik~ sawing wood.

- - - Main park road Park trac:kf ~ Rivers

"

VERVET

The WATERBUCK found here is the defassa race which has a large light coloured patch on the rump in place of the ring found in the common waterbuck. As their name implies they usually live near watercourses and will take to water when pursued. Only the males are homed. They are territorial, but waterbuck are unusual in that several adult, subadult and juvenile males are sometimes found mixed with herds of females and young. The territoria! bull wiil tolerate them as long as they behave submissively approaching him with head and tail extended while licking the air. Females perform the same display.

BABOONS are particularly common in the Seronera valley. Much of theIr diet consists of grass, roots, fruit and insects but they frequently hunt and kill the young of impala, ree<;lbuck and other antetopes. A single baboon troop can range in an area as Iatge as 10 sq km

The scattered trees in the Seronera red-oat grassland are mainly.species of acacia and commiphora, with the flat topped or umbrella acacia predominant Along the valley itself the yellow-barked acacia tree and the wild date palm are present Ba/anites aegyptiaca is a very common tree on the edge of the plains and is also seen in the area of Lake Magadi and the Moru Kopjes.

A traboon troop consists of between 30 - 100 indiWduals, and is made up of females and their young, adolescent animals of both sexes and a number of adult males. At adolescence males leave the troop into which they were born and 'transfer' into another troop. Males can be distinguished from females by their larger size, thick mane and large canine teeth. At first, females carry their young on their stomachs, but after about a month the young infant rides jockey style on the mother's back near the tail. Female baboons form dominance hierarchies. in which the members of the same famUyassume similar ranks. High-ranking females have greater opportunity to get the best food and sometimes have more offspring. The hierarchies of males are not so clear cut and depend less on their mothers' rank than on such factors as fighting ability and age. Females in oestrus develop large pink swellings on their rearS: -.vhich signal receptivity.

34

During and just after the rains, in May and June, tall purple flowers of Erlangea cordito/is often grow side by side with the yellow, daisy-like B/dens scl1imper/with its clinging 'black-jack' seeds. Also common is the white morning glory Ipomeoa mombasana and after the long grass has been burned off, pyjama lilies Crinum kirki;, with their purple, red and white stripes often decorate the plain.

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SPURFOWL

GUINEA FOWL

Tf'IeVEmlET is a smaller ki nd of monkey with a black face, white cheek tufts and grey fur .. It is commonly found in wooded areas of the Park. Male velVets are easily identified by their azure blue scrotums. VelVets feed on insects, fruit, leaves and seeds and may also eat young birds and eggs. Their social structure is similar to babc1Q5J$ alfbgh vervet groups are territorial and defend their ranges against

Along the valley both HELMETED GUINEA FOWL and GREY-BREASTED SPURFOWL are common, and form an important part of the diet of ~e smaller predators such as civets, servals and wild cats, genets, the larger mongoose species, and jackals.

SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK

ToKEEKEROK

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ToMUSOMA

To FORT IKOMA

~ TO NGORONGORO andARUSHA

The lions of the Seronera area often hUnt along the river courses in the daytime and you may be lucky enough to see a hunt A high proportion of hunls are IJnsuccessful but are fascinating to watch, particularly if several members of the pride are hunting together. Uons hunt by stealthily stalking their prey. Crouching low to the ground they advance close enough to make a rush. Uons generally knock running prey over with a swipe of the paw, or pull it down with both front paws, whilst keeping their hind tegs on the groUnd. As soon as the prey is down, the lion either grasps the throat, biting down OJ'l the windpipe or grabs the muzzle. and suffocates the prey.

Once the animal is dead, lions will sometimes move it to a secluded or shady spot. Depending on how hungry the lions are, they may feed quietly or if they are a large group, eat anything they can get hold of and begin dragging pieces away as soon as possible. Cubs start to eat at a kill from about three months old but adult males usually get priority at a kill even over the females that hunted it, and can eat up to a quarter of their body weight! The main prey species in the Seronera valley are buffalos and Thomson's gazelles, but when migrating wildebeest and zebras pass through they are often taken as well.

The 'greatest attraction, to rflost visitors, or the Seronera valley is the chance to see large prides of UONS, many of which are resident here. The plains are not a hospitable environment for lions, except during the rainy season and most .lions keep to the wooded areas of Serengeti where food, water and prey are always available.

"you find a kill with lions eating, please do not go too close as you may disturb them. AIhoogh the Seronera lions are familiar with cars it can be dangerous to approach.

Uon prides consist of a core of related females: mothers, daughters, sisters, cousins and aunts. These groups of females have a territorial range within which they capture prey and raise their cubs. Cubs of different females are often born close together and are 'raised' by several females. The cubs can suckle from any lactating female and if a mother dies, her orphans will be adopted by the other females.

The role of male lions is very different A band of male lions, often brothers, have a range which they mark, patrol and defend. Within this range may live one or more prides of females and the males will join these prides and mate with any receptive females. The more prides they hold, the more cubs the males are likely to sire. Some lions live a nomadic life, roaming singly, in pairs or in small groups, with no fixed territories.

You are most likely to find a pride of lions resting, as lions spend a large part of their day sleeping! If they are awake, they may be licking, grooming, playing and greeting one another. Uons greet whenever they meet after being separated or upon waking. Greeting behaviour is easy to recognise and consists of rubbing heads together or even the whole body. A cub greets its mother by rubbing the top of its head and then its whole body and tail under her chin.

38

You can easily distinguish the males from the females in a pride by their manes and larger size, and if you spend some time watChing you can soon recognize individuals. Most lions have scars on their faces and ears, .. f; and some may even have broken" teeth. Scientists have been studying the lions in the Serengeti for twenty years and use these marks to distinguish individuals. Also, (much like human finger prints), the pattern of the whisker 'spots' is unique to every tion. and is useful for identification because

,

39

Jackals have a very interesting social system as they are one of the few mammaliarl species in which the male and female mate for life. Black-backed jackal pups arrb usually born in July and August and remain in their den for the first few weeks. Tm:, mother stays in the den with them and her mate reglidarly feeds her by regurgJtatit meat At about three and a half months old, the cubs no longer use the den and by s months they are hunting on their own with some success.

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Often seen on a kill once the lions have finished are flyenes and the three speC~ of 1III111 JACKALS which occur in the Park. It is unlikely that you will see all thtw at once, Ili because the side-striped, with its white tail tip, is rather rare and the garden jackal is mainly to be seen on the short-grass pfains. Most likely to be found is the btac,,­ backed jackal which Can be distinguished by its silver-streaked black saddle and yellowish-rust coloured flanks and legs. Apart from feeding on kills, jackals eat a variety of small creatures including scarab grubs which they extract from the enclosing ball of dung. They may also hunt larger animals such as Tommies.

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When lions are teedtng on a I their presence IS often made known by the

overhead or waiting patiently in nearby trees. Six species of VULTURES occur in the Serengeti: 1. Egyptian, 2. White­ headed, 3. White-backed, 4. Lappet­ faced ~. RUppell'sand 6. Hooded.

In many cases when pups have matured, they will stay with their parents and become 'helpers' for the next year's litter and help raise their younger brothers and sisters. Helpers regurgitate food to the pups and also to the mother while she is Iac~ting. They also contribute by babysitting and guarding pups. Hyenas do atteI ,Ipt to prey on young pups but can be successfully driven away if one adult jackal is present. Studies have shown that more pups survive when helpeF8 are present

!

White-backed and ,RUppell's are adapted for pulling out large soft pieces itm the carcass, while tappet-faced and white-headed are better able to tear and twist off the tougher and more sinewy meat Hooded and Egyptian vultures peck up the smaller pieces off the bones with sharpened beaks. Usually vultures will not attempt to feed from a kill while the lions are still in possession of it, but the hooded vulture is bolder than the others in this respect because it does not need as long a take-off distance as the others. Althotlgh principally scavengers, both lappet-faced and white·-headed vultures have been known to kill their own prey, taking young Tommies, bat-eared foxes. fledgling $8Cfetary birds and even wild cats. Egyptian vultures have been seen to feed on ostrich eggs which they break open by using rocks held in the beak. This is an unusual exan'lpte of tool using by birds.

1. GOLDEN

\

2. SIDE.:.sTRlPED

3. BLACK-BACKED

40

4t

Solh species may live very close together on the same kopje in apparent harmony afthtwg~ each has separate living holes. These holes are small enough to keep leopards. jackals, servals and caracals - their main predators.

Hyraxes are notable for being the nearest living relative of the elephant as shown by anatomical similarities, a fact not easy to believe! Both hyrax species live in cotcnies and within their home ranges there are sun-bathing places. look out points, sandwallowing places. drinking places and latrine areas. The colonies are divldGd into families with one male and several young females.

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KOPAES AND LAKES

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The Afrikaans 'kopje' (pronounced copy) is the term commonly usedin East Africa for the rocky outcrops technically known as inselbergs. They consist of very old granite r~k':which; becau$9 of erosion and weathering, has broken up into a rough and fumbl~ surface. In the open grasslands, where thtl countryside has been more or less leveNed off by oeposits of dust and asbfrom volcanoes of the Rift. kopjes stand out against the surrounding plain.

Themaccessible tops of some of the rocks in the kopjes make secure nesting sites for birds of prey, such as the splendid Verreaux's eagle. which has been known to build Rests in the Moro Kopjes in the southwest of the Park. This magfdIcent solitary IllIf.I& kills hyraxes. hares and aven some of the smaller anteIope8.lt.lays ona or two white eggs in a huge nest at the beginning of the rainy season.

Species of aloe as weB as the taU lion's ear Leonotls nepet/JBfOJia grow iri and around the kopjes and 8Ie pollinated by SUNBIRDS as they By from flower to flower. Blue or yeHow hibiscus may also be found near the foot of the rocks.

The kopjes are remarkable in that they have their own range of vegetation aM wildlife '''. which, in the ease of tne open plains, makes them into islands in a sea of grass. On . "'!the plains, where there is little shelter from the sun, they provide shade and protection

in a habitat fret: from the dangers of fire Rnd flood.

Although the kopjes vary, some in the open plains being little more than mounds of QaQ'eR rock, they often support a tf;, . ; •..• 0 cover of shrubs and, around the base, wild

42

43

Perhaps the most conspicuous form of wildlife on the kopjE! is the hyrax, of which two species occur. The ROCK HYRAX is larger and browner in colour than the

BUSH HYRAX whose fur is grey. These animals differ in habits in that the rock hyrax grazes the grasses up to 55m from the kopje base while the busIt hyrax is an

... outstanding climber and lives on the tender leaves r:J the umbreUa acacias growing nearby.

KUPSPRINGER

OIKOIK

Often a pair of KIRK'S DIKDIKS live at the foot of a kopje. These are extremely small antelope weighing only about 4 kgs. The female is slightly bigger than the male. In colour they are drab grey and they have very large, luminous eyes and proboscis-like noses. Only the male is hOfi"led. Uke the hyrax, they have the habit of depositing their droppings in a selected spot, where large quantities accumulate.

In the northern part of the Park you may catch sight of a pair of KLlPSPRINGERS. These thick -set, rough-coated antelopes are about the size of goats and adapted for leaping from rock to rock. They stand on the very tips of their narrow, almost cylindrical hooves. Klipspringers are monogamous and mate for several years, living in their own territory which they mark using scent glands near the eye. If you see three together, one is likely to be a young animal and may have shorter horns. This is the Maasai race of klipspringer in

.44

'~ii

SLENDER, DWARF and BANDED MONGOOSES are frequently seen in the vicinit) kopjes. The slender or black-tipped mongoose is a very slightly built animal ab 40cm long in body which is covered with wiry grizzled brown fur. It is a solit iJ}ecies and can be recognized by its habit of carrying its long tail curved up at the . Like the other species, it lives on snakes, lizards, rats and mice, birds' eggs and fledglings, grubs, fruit and berries. Dwarf mdf1gooses are much smaller, only about 20 cm long in the body. They are a dark reddish brown in colour and are usually seen in small groups which frequently live in abandoned termite mounds. The banded mongoose also lives ifl packs, and is dark brownish-grey with conspicuous bands around the body, which is slightly bigger than that of the slender species. Although they take a variety of other food they are known to be pri'J'lCipaHy insectivorous. The white-tailed mongoose is a larger, sOlitary species, which is nocturnal but may sometimes be seen at dawn or dusk.

1. DWARF 2. WHITE-TAILED 3. BANOED 4 SLENDER or BLACK-TIPPED

Snakes. particularly spitting cobras and puff adders, live in the rock crevices and will kill adult hyrax as well as smaller creatures.

Often seen at dusk around the kopjes, hawking for insects or resting on the ground is the nightjar. Nightjars' feet are adapted for resting on the ground. When perching or, a branch they sit along it, not at right angles as other birds do. Four species of nightjars have been recorded in the Serengeti, including the pennant-winged, the male of which cames enormously long streamers on his wings when in breediftg plumage.

45

are visiting trl8 MOW Kopjes you mal} be

,horn has drastically reduced their numbers. Rhinot, are most stable association being that of Cl. mother and Gait

'a home range, the size of which varies the.rhino population. When a female

to see a BLACK RHINO. poaching for their solitary as adults. the

are usually found within 1:md the density of she will chase off an it !~lay ~~.ter rejoin them.

THE LAKES

A distinctive feature is their habit of del)O~litil1g scattered with the hind feet This undoubtedly hat\) iL may h~ve a territorial function.

'"vhich is then tdgnificance and

Black rhinos are browsers and have pointed It.dap'IOO for browsing off

exploratory charge is often made to C£iUm< the d!~~~Uirb<lltT1(::e, to mOi!i!!l enabiing the rhino to locate it

quickly if an individual shows signs of ag<gre:ssiorL

to i'!1ove away

The are two shallow saline lakes in the Serengeti:- Lagaja and MagadL The Swahili word 'magadi' means soda and is thereforei.commonly used for lakes of this .kind.

The soda lakes are very shallow, rarely reaching a depth of more than two metres or so aOhe height of the rains, and often drYing up completely by the end of the dry season. They are formed in natural dep~esslons in the land from which there is a very limited outlet The surface water ~hichfills them carries in various mineral elements, chiefly calcium, potassium and sodium. When these takes do dry up through evaporation they glitter with a white encrustation of salts which looks, at a distance. like fallen snow.

From the wildlife point of view the lakes are most notable for both GREATER and LESSER FLAMINGOS, which feed on the minute plants and animals which live in the mud of soda lakes. These beautiful birds obtain their food by sieving mud and retai-ning the very small organisms by means of comb-like structures on the edges of their bills. Because the occurence of suitable flamingo food fluctuates, flamingos move from lake to lake and their presence on any particular stretch of water is not predictable.

47

BUFFALOS can be seen in mixed breeding herds or in small all-male groups of old bulls or sometimes alone. They weigh up to 775 kg5, measure about one and half metres at the shoulder and carry massive, heavily bossed horns. Buffalos are entirely grazers. but generally avoid the open grass plains, preferring the bush country where shade is available to them during the heat of the day. They need to drink regularly and are especially fond of wallowing, so are rarely found far from water.

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,~'aANAGI

BGlnagi which is about I cl kms north of Seronera, is on the road to Lobo and the northern part of the Park. Under the shadow of Banagi hill, herds of buffalos and impala are usually to be found as well as groups of giraffes.

One of the most graceful of East Africa's antelopes is the IMPALf\. The impale has a rufous coat, dark above and bl6nding into fawn below, with a black stripe bordering the white rump patches. The horns of the Serei1geti impala, fOlJlld on males only. are unsurpassed in size. Both sexes have scent glands concealed in tufts of black wiry hair just above the heels. There ara also sebaceous glands in the forehead with MUch ad'JIt males scent-mark bushes and ·trees by rlJbbing their heads against them. 1mpafs stand about one metre at the shoulder and weigh about 10 kgs for mates and 50 legs for females.

Being browsers as well as grazers, impala are seldom far from cover. They>81'8 cons'lantly on the alert as they form a favourite food for many of the large predmors, particularij leopards. Alarrn«! impala seam to explode in All directions" in great 8D8ring bot.(nds. maldng it hard for a cat ~ single out a vidim.'

If lions are bold enough to approach a herd, the bulls form a ring with the cows and calves in the centre and usually drive the lions away. Cows and calves however are sometimes taken, but the easiest buffalos for lions to take are paradoxically the huge but lethargic old bulls in the bachelor herds.

FIELD ESTIMATION OF AGING (after Grimsdell)

Impels are seen either in breeding herds of females and young, each shepherded by a territorial male, or in all-male groups of from 10-50 animals. The male groups are riot compGseO of senile old males as in the case of buffalos, but of imrnature and prime maies that have yet to gain or lose a territory. Bachelor herds are typically found close to the breeding herds and may even 00 allowed to mingle with the females. The territorial male can be identified by his herding of females and frequent 'lfigorous chasing of bachelors away from the females. featuring a spectacular puffing and roaring display, hedashesabout with horns forward and tail spread and raised to reveal the white 'flag'. Each male must possess a territory in order to gain the opportunity to breed and the competition is so intense for the chance to monopolize hards of up to 100 females that few impala manage to hold a territory for· more than three months at a time.

~

'(o~··sh&ld be able to distinguish between the sexes and ages from horn shape allc;i size and might see evidence of the dominance hierarchy found in' males, by watchjng to see if animals displace others from food.

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49

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For all its grea.t length, the giraffe's neck has only seven vertebrae the same as rMn. A male giraffe weighs about 500-800 kgs ane! stands miee and a half metres at tne Shoulders: the female is about on6 metre shorter and correspondingly lighter. Males can be' distinguished from females by their sturdier horns, which aie not true horns but thickened bone. In the female the horns are more slender and often topped with a tuft of hak

Because GIRAFFES feed almost exclusively on the tender leaves of acacia trees they are rarely seen anywhere but in • areas where these trees grow. The' species occurring in the Serengeti is the Maasai giraffe, which nas irregular roseate or star-shaped markings which cover almbst the entire body. Giraffes have individually distirict patterns - the ileck is a good place to look at the markings and recognise individuals. Giraffes do not compete for food with grazing animals, and barely overlap witn other browsers becauseJ.:lf theheight,atvdlich they feed, they are therefore able to share meil" habitat with a wide range of creatures.

.

---

At the hippo pool at Retima, 6 kms from Banagi you wHI be able to watch a party of HIPPOS passing the daylight hours submerged in the Orangi River. Hippos are large animals (on average 2-3000 kgs) and their bodies overheat easily and need to be cooled in water. They swim very well and dive for periods of about three minutes before· coming up to breathe noisily.

At night. and OCCB$ionaHy 00 wet overcast days, hippos leave the water to crop the VGgetalOn a considerable distance from the pool. They can eat up to 60 kgs in a

night! .

Fematea give birth to a single OBIf on land or in water. The calf is suckled at first on tand 8Rd IhtJIt In the water. Motfter8 are very protective and teach their young to swim

Pis ,., watch hippOS.,., •• most likefy hear them grunting and might see them spreading their dung will vigorous wagging movements of their shQrt strong tails. It is safe to watch the hippos from the b~nk as they bask in the water, but they should be avoided if found on fand. Hippos are usually placid creatures but can become very aggressive if an intruder gets between them and their pool.

If you watch giraffe~ walk you will notice mat they have Cl characteristic gait which brings both limbs on the sar:,,: side "'c:'w3rd together .

Amongst males there is a strong dominance hierarchy and it is fairly easy to observe the displacement of one male by another. Males frequently spar in a particular manner called 'necking'. They stand shoulder to shoulder and swing their heads at the opponent The impact can sometimes be very hard and heard as a thud.

50

$It

The AFRICAN ELEPHANT is larger than its ASiatic cousin and has a more sloping back and much larger ears. If you see a herd of elephants it is most likely to be either an all male gro':.Jp or a family un;t Like the baboon and the lion, the social system of, the elephant is based on close family kin. Daughters remain in the same herd as their mothers and grandmothers whilst males leave once they reach adolescence. The young males then frequent bachelor groups which are not permanent and often change composition.

If you watch a female herd you may be able to spot the matriarch. This is usually the oldest and large,st animal who acts as the leader, particularly during defence when she will govern the course of action. Afemale may give birttjby the time she is 12 years old, after a gestation period of 22 months. When a b~by elephant Oust about 80 cms high) is bom the whole herd is attentive to it a1/ will be very protective, especially against lions.

i_ I

Males within a population have a dominance hierarchy.1t certain times of the year a

dominant male exhibits a phenomenon known as 'must~' (pronounced must), which is apparently a highly sexual state. This can be ~ecogrized by a profuse secretion from the temporal gland at the side of the head and th~continuous dribbling of urine. Such males usually associate with herds when a ferT)~le is in season.

Elephar its can be recognised individually by looking at the shape of their tusks and nicks 11, the outline of their ears. Tusk circumference and length can also be used to age an animal. Do not approa.ch elephants too closely, especially if they show signs of aggression such al) head shaking or spmading of the ears.

BANAGINORTHWARDS

The country northward from Bansgl on the road to Lobo Wildlife Lodge, and ' Bologonja gate is characterised by rolling upland. The area is covered in bush and sparse woodland, interspersed with open plains and ranges of hills, some like Lobo, studde-d with spectacular kopjes. The area from Banagi to Kilimafedha is composed of some of the world's most ancient rock - two to three thousand million years old ­ con~ining gold-bearing quartz veins,. The name Kifimafedha means 'hill of wealth'

FIELD ESTIMAnON of AGING (after Laws)

'"

It is in this of the Park that elephants are most likely to be seen, as well as their effect on the woodlands. In the past the Serengeti· was not considered elephant country, but recently more and more have been recorded· here, probably due to pressure put on them by the demands of agriculture and hunting in non-reselVed areas. The elephants' impact on the trees, is mainly noticeable during the height of the dry season. During the wet months of the year, when the vegetation is lush, the elephants do not feed on the trees, but during the dry season when grasses are short and unpalatable, the elephants turn to trees to supplement their diet

,(

~

53

G8t1ery forest, including huge fig and mahogany trees, line the watercourses. In the forest live brightly coloured birds of the turaco family, especially Hartlaub's and Ross's, which are green or blue with crimson wings. This family are noted for their harsh call and habit of running and hopping along the branches of trees. Beside the river banks several species of kingfisher are to be seen as well as thp. brown and white FISH EAGLE whose lonely cry will often be heard echoing above the riverine forest

To KE:l!KBWI(

A rare animal you might see is the PATAS MONKEY, a large rangy animal with a ginger-red and white coat The patas is more at home on the ground than, as with most monkeys, in the trees. It is diurnal and moves about in small troops, each led by an adult male, who is nearly twice as big as the females .

16 kms downstream from Bologonja spring, which provides water for Seronera 80 kms away, near the southern tip of the Naimalumbua hills, is Olemangi salt lick. It consists of about half a hectare of bare, wet earth in a seepage area near the river valley and is much used by animals.

Mountain (Chanler's) reedbuck are to be found on Lobo Hill, as well as on most of the higher ridges throughout the Park. They are very similar to the Bohor reedbuck, but greyer in body colour, and more sociable, living in groups of up to ten. They are shy. alert animals and when alarmed will whistle and take refuge.

54

N

I

55

Other antelopes found in this area are COTTON'S ORIBI and the GREY BUSH OUIKER. The oribi looks like a small gazelle and is a distinctive reddish-fawn colour, standing about 60 cms at the shoulder, and can be recognised at close quarters by the dark. circular. glandular patch below the ears.

Grey bush duikers are abOut the same size as oribi, and are grey-buff in colour. Like the oribi, the horns ~e normally only present in the male.

I

COTTOPfS ORl81

The great herds of wildebeest make use of this part of the Park from August until the start of the short rains in November, before they move down into the shbl't­ grass plains for the duration of the wet months. While in the area they cross and recross the Mara River in search of palatable grazing, and it not uncommon for as many as fifty animals to be drowned as the herds surge across the river, which is 90 m wide in places.

Two acacias typical of this area are Acacia gerrardii with its high, rounded crown and a small tree Acacia hock;i which rarely grows taller than 7 m, seen in profusion in the Togoro plains.

51

Anyone who has heard the wind blowing through WHISTUNG THORN wm appreciate its name. The whistling sound is caused by vibration of the spiky thorns as well as by the wind passing over the holes in the round galls. The galls are inhabited by ants, which raise their young in the safety of the thorn-protected galls.

't"f::,

"fI':&w~ cbrrldor road. whicb br.aoctlas...left from the SerQMra-Banagl road, 5 kms from Seronera, takes you eventually to the Pants N'd'abal<tfi1afe. neaF'tbe shores of Lake Victoria, and is the mete to Muooma a~d Mwanza As you travef westward you will have the Grumeti River, which drains intcLake Victoria, to your right Ahead of you and to the left is the central range of hills. 30 kms short of j\,ldabaka you cross extensive black clay plains. This soil, known as 'black cotton' becomes waterlogged during the rains. During and just after the wet season you will see large numbers of beautiful yellow and blue hibiscus plants flowering above the surrounding grass cover. Whereas the short-grass plains are at their best during the rainy season the western corridor is more interesting during the dry months of June to October, when in any case. travelling is easier.

PATTERSON'S ELAND is a large ramer cow/ike antelope weighing, as much as 900 legs and measuring nearly two metres to the top of the hump. In colQur the females are reddish-fawn and the males are grey. Both sexes have lateral stripesroond the barrel of the txxtv and a conspicuous tuft of dark hair on~e dewlap.

'Bothmales and fem1!d'es""tlave"heavily spiralled or corkscrew horns which grow straight.back.:fromithehead. Eland, Uke cattle. are very susceptible to rinderpest, 8 disease of livestock, and were nearly wiped out at the turn of the century when a severeepidemic'Struck East Africa. In ranching areas, where some wildlife has been allowed to remain, eland have been known to mingle with the cattle and even allow themselves to be herded into a stockade at night

57

The CANDEI..ABAA TREE grows profusely in the Ndabaka area, as it does in many parts. of the Park, including Seronem. It often gains a foothold in the crevices of a kopjs where its dark green, succulent leaves contrast with the grey of . the rocks. Also growing here, though less common, is the toothbrush bush. the stems of which when chewed at the ends make a very serviceable toothbrush. If you ere fnterested in seeing it, ask your guide to point itou,t.and show you its use. Wait­ a-bit thorn grows along the corridor road. In March the white flowers, which have a very sweet smell, can be seen decorating the landscape.

Known to nest in tall trees in the Mbalageti valley are MARTIAL EAGLES, another of the great birds of prey of the Serengeti, being second in size only to the crowned eagle. This bird, ashy brown above and on the wings, has a distinctive white belly dotted with brownish spots. Martial eagles are powerful hunters, able to kill game birds, hyraxes and small antelope.

To the south west of the western corridor lies the Ndoha Plain - this area is at present rather inaccessible. It is here that YQu might see ROAN ANTELOPE. These striking animals are rust grey and have prominent black and white facial markings, long ears, and strong heavily ridged, backward sweeping horns. This area is also the main breeding ground in the Park for topi.

58

In the river itself are some exceptionally large CROCODILES. These great reptiles can be watched as: they bask on the s,,'3.i1dbanks of the river, but do not venture too near the waters'edge as crocodiles seize prey with surprising speed. Once caught in the vice-like jaws, the prey is drawn under water to subdue it ami either torn apart immediately or stored until wanted.

Baboons and yep/et

commonly found in the western

and in the riverine forest

Grumeti River. BLACK and COLOBUS monkeys are also to be seen leaping from branch to branch WIth an almost flying action. They are largely arboreal, feeding on the leaves of the trees in which they live. They can be detected as the troop moves ratller noisily through the branches overhead making fantastic leaps from tree to tree. The best place to see colobus is where the river comes close to the road at the north end of Kimarishi Hill.

An adult black and white colobus measures around 80 ems from the head to the base of the tail while the tail itself is 3.oout another 100 cms long. Colobus live in family troops with an adult male and several female~. Young mates leave and either form new troops or are solifary.

-_ .. ,-----~-~-,._. ~-_ .. __ ._------

59

PARK MANAGEMENT

The policy of the management of parks in East Africa is to try and preserve natural ecosystems and not to interfere whenever possible with the animals and plants wi1hin an ecosystem. Park management is concerned with the three main influences of man on wildlife: poaching, fire and tourism, and conversely, with the effects of wildlife activities on communities living close to the Park, such as cropraiding and destruction of livestock by predators.

POACHING

Pari< authorities organise anti-poaching patrols. There are two types of poacher in the Serengeti, those who poach for meat, and trophy hunters who kill elephants and rhinos. In the past meat poaching - usually wildebeest and zebra - was carried out by local people livii'g near the boundaries of the Park and has always been especially serious in the Western Corridor and northern part of the Park. In the southern part poaching is less of a problem because there is little human settlement nearby and because the local Maasai people traditionally are not hunters.

More recently, poaching for meat has become commercjaHsed with large numbers of animals being kilted e.ach year, 8RO the ~,n1:i--Poad1tng Units spend many ~ trac!ting and trying to apprehend ~ "'\Jn~ftopl'ly'hunting tar iwr; -ahd rhino horn has also greatly increased recentl~ :as WOOd' m~kets COI"lfiftue to demand these items.

YOU CAN HELP THE PARKS IN THEIR FIGHT AGAINST IVORY POACHERS BY NOT CONTRIBUTING TO THE TRADE8Y BUYING IVORY GQOOS.

If you do see any poachers in the Park please give any information to the nearest ranger post as soon as possible.

BURNING

Visitors are often perturbed b¥ the sight of numerous grass fires which spread through the Serengeti and surrounding areas during the dry season. Within the Parl< they are usually started by poachers and cattle rustlers attempting to hide their tracks. Cattle rustlers illegally move herds of cattle through the Park despite efforts to prevent this practice. Fires started outside the Park by the Maasai to produce new grass shoots for their cattle, may accidentally spread into the Rark

The fires often damage new trees and hence prevent woodlands from becoming established and cause management problems to the Park authorities who try to minimize their effect One method of 'prevention' is to carry out early burning at thft end of the wet season when there is still some moisture in the vegetation. Controfled burning of the short and long grass plains at this time doos not harm the bush and young trees. The flush of young grass shoots a..Qpear for the grazing animals and large fires are prevented from becornillg established later in the year.

TOURISM

Tourism is an integral part of park management Facilities for tourists, such as Toads and accommodation, have to be provided and maintained. Roads are planned to give visitors an opportunity to see as much of the wildl1fec~~le, without damaging the fragile vegetation. Campsites are chosen for theJr sceenic location and equipped with facilities. A network of support services has also been established. Pari« Interpretation programmes have been ~ to increase understanding about the local environment

To understand fully the dynaniiCS()f,ai'i ecosystem, animal and plant popu!'!:'.icl!l~ rmtSt be regularly monitored. Park authoritfes col'ititule tong-term monitoring in the 8erengeti. This information is essential to~tE~>theeffectiveness of ~ techniques as pressures on the Park ic:JcmasB

The Serengeti Wttdlife Researcft Centre was founded in 1962 and most of the scientists undertake ecological research to provide scientific inforMation upon which to base sound management and conservation practices. Such projects tnclude s1udies on trees and grasses, fire ecology and the wiidebeest migration. Other Iong­ term ecological and behavioural studies include projects on lions, cheetah and mongooses.

RESEARCH

ANiMAL POPULA110NS

A wildlife census was carried out in 1984/5 as part of the long-term monitoring of populations in the Serengeti. The population numbers were estimated to be:

Wildebeest Zebra

Thomson's gazelle Grant's gazelle Impala

Topi

Kongoni

62

1.300,000 200,000 250,(l()() 30,000 70,000 50,000 15.000

I . rooin access to the Sersngeti Natiol"iai Park is in the south east from Arus~A, passing Lake Manyara, the Ngoroog01<> Crater Conservation Area and Olduvdi Gorge. The distance from Arnsha to Seron6fa, the Park headquarters is 317 kms. Access to the Park from the east is vimmiJy non-existent but a dry weather earth road joins Seronera to Musoma and Mwanla to the west Depending on border controls,

FEES

information on current fe<>-S for to the jl-~ooa4 ~can be obtained from tour operators or the I\.latioflat Par...; HeadqIJaiiers, PoD. Box 31:i4, ANsha. Prices are subject to change.

ACCOMMODATiON

a

1/\Nll111l,1•

~:

There are two lodges ill the - Seronera Wildlife lodge and lobe Wildl~ Lodge, which is about 70 ~mls north of Serof!era. Both lodges are built on kopjes and well designed to blend in with the natural SUfl'OOfldings. Eacn lodge has 150 beds with private OO:fnrooms and Lobo has a swimm~rtg pooJ. Bookings can be made

,

III

Buffalo (half northern park) Warthog

Eland

Giraffe

Ostrich

Uon

Elephants (half northern park)

20,000 10.000 9.000 8,000 2,000 1,500

800

Cam~:

nlare are nine campsites in the P8Jk, four at Sl':l!rOI'l6fa and one each at L.obo. the

It you '{1ish to camp at

Fees for camping should be paid at !:he gate on your arrival. If you IMsh to camp itl the Park other than ill campsites you illust get permission froffl the warden and pay ~ial fees. Poopre found camping without such permission will be fiAed. PfeaSe always be careful with your Ca.ll'lpi/ireand rubbist;l

TenIId c.arnp:

Theie are plans to build a tented camp near Kirawira in the western corridor of the perk.

GuRI ~ and HcsteI:

There are two guest houses at Seronera for gwesls of the Tanzania National Parts and for government officials, and a hostel for visiting parties of school children.

GARAGE FACILITIES

There are garage facilities at Seronera Park Headquarters and at Lobo WiId1ite Lodge. Petrol, when available, can be purchased at Lobo Wikttife Lodge and the Seronera Tourist Centre 8.00 am -12.30 pm and 2.00 - 4.30 pm.

MEDICAL FACILITIES

There is a dispensary at Seronera Park Headquarters and at Lobo Wildlife Lodge fOr first aid. If you need further medical help, there ale radios at aB rangers' posIs which can contact Park- Headquarters at Seronera. tram where the Flying Doctor SerYiee can be called.

PARK INTERPRETATION

The Seronera Tourist Centre is open from 8.00 am -12.30 pm and 2.00 - 4..30 pm.

Guides:

There are guides available at the Tourist Centre and Park rangers at Lobo, who can accompany you on your game drives. There is a small fee for this 88Mce. People

~.

There are museums at Seronera tourist Centre. Naabi Hill Gate and Bologonja Gate.